Go Big And Come Home

Not gonna lie – I loved Belle Mont Farm but was breathing a sigh of relief as we headed to Nevis knowing the climate control and wildlife situation at the Four Seasons would be more our speed. Little did we know the bugs in Nevis had a taste for our blood and we’d come home looking like we had small pox! It was worth it 😉

Our Thanksgiving Day boat ride to Nevis was swift – we booked a private transfer through Wincent at Islander Watersports and the crew was lovely. The kids tossed back a Ting and the adults had a Carib as we sped towards the Four Seasons dock. Pulling up to the resort, the view was beautiful. We’d spend the next three nights on that same dock watching the sunset.

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We snagged some lunch and then Tim watched the Bears game (really – why?) while the kids and I hit the beach. It’s a very kid-friendly resort and we had a blast jumping on the water trampoline. The first of many happy hour sunsets was followed by Thanksgiving room service dinner in our robes – I’m telling you, these kids live the life.

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The next day we enjoyed some water sports, beach and pool time. I snuck in a workout while Tim played tennis with the kids. The brunch at the resort was first class – ever the sophisticated palette, Caroline ate her way through the buffet ending with a plate filled with cheese, olives, pickles and a lemon #SweetCarolineIsReallySavoryCaroline. We had amazing sushi for lunch at a place called Mango, and then dinner at EsQuilina (both on-site). No muss, no fuss.

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Our final full day in Nevis I blissed out over a Nevisian massage. HIGHLY recommend doing if you are there. We had some fun on the beach and then popped over to The Rocks for lunch at the Golden Rock Inn. Great drinks and food – but more than that, it was a chance to get off the resort to see a little bit of Nevis. Our driver told us some stories of Alexander Hamilton, who was born and sent to primary school on the island. We wrapped the day by the pool before catching yet another sunset-filled happy hour. Saturday nights are burger night at Kastawey Beach Bar – I had a crab burger and Tim had a lamb burger and, aside from being eaten alive by bugs, it was pretty damn good. We retired early knowing we had a 3:30AM wake up call for our ferry back to St. Kitts.

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On Sunday, it was time to head home and face reality again — as we walked to our ferry in the dark of night there was a gentle lulling song playing over the speakers by the pool. It further cemented my desire to lay down on a beach chair in protest and stay one more day (ask Tim, I’m famous for convincing him on the last day to let us stay one more day!!).

But alas, we rode back to St. Kitts in dark silence and waved goodbye to the islands through the plane windows just as dawn started to peak through. We made it back to Miami safely and, given we are standby travelers, popped into an Uber and darted to Ft. Lauderdale to catch a flight back to Chicago. Sadly, we didn’t end up getting seats and spent 8+ hours in the Ft. Lauderdale airport (NOT an airport you want to be stuck in! #insulttoinjury). Caroline was so bored she actually voluntarily starting creating her own study guide for her 3rd grade Bible test! And pretty sure we let Will play Minecraft for 6 hours straight. #parentsoftheyear

Arriving home in Chicago the Sunday after Thanksgiving – as a snow storm was hitting – was not ideal. We deplaned at the furthest gate in Terminal 3, withstood a 45 minute wait for a Lyft home, and eventually stumbled into Glenview around 10:30PM. #stillworthit #stillgrateful Despite the long day of travel, I smiled like a fool walking through the American terminal at O’Hare seeing the Christmas decorations on point, as always.

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Overall – I’d definitely recommend St. Kitts and Nevis though I wouldn’t go back there again without exploring some other islands first – for what that’s worth. I need more of a base of comparison to say whether the trek and expense while there is worth it relative to other islands. I mean, I’m happy to continue doing research on this front – ha!

I’m at a place in my life where I can really appreciate the beauty of an island that emerged as the result of volcanic eruption and scorched earth. So what better backdrop for my first travel blog adventure than a resort on the side of a volcano.

The journey from Chicago to St. Kitts was not without drama. Upon arriving at O’Hare, we realized we left a bag at home. A bag Tim had to retrieve. Fortunately, he found an Uber driver committed to the cause and was able to get back home, snag the bag, race through airport security (don’t try this at home kids – he is a pilot so has expedited security screening!), and arrived at the gate in order for us to board mere seconds before they closed the door. Crisis averted (or so we thought).

Once in Miami, we posted up at the Trump Resort in Doral – they placed us in the Arnold Palmer wing. Our president is better at hotels than politics. I’d give the resort 4.5 stars. The kids enjoyed a quick dip in the pool the next morning and then back to the airport we went for the second leg of our journey. At the airport, we realized the kids’ passports expire in 5 months and 3 weeks. Apparently, you need 6 months on your passport for St. Kitts & Nevis. Each step of airport check-in and security was excruciating as we waited for someone to notice (or care of) this fact. Fortunately for us – they didn’t. Lessons learned: (1) do a bag count prior to leaving and (2) always verify passport expiration guidelines. I’m not a rookie traveler so I was kicking myself for being too cavalier.

Finally, we land in St. Kitts and our journey up the side of Mount Liamuiga to our hotel began. We stayed at the beautiful Belle Mont Farm – billed for pioneering sustainable, luxury living. You can never be too sure if the pictures on line are a true representation of a property, but in this case they were. The main building is a restored sugar mill and the entire resort feels as if it just naturally emerged from the side of the luscious green volcano. Donkeys, chickens and monkeys were abound on the road to the main check in. Every person we met was warmer than the previous, and the immediate greeting with complimentary rum punch was just what a weary mom and dad needed.

Our room was so dreamy – a little bungalow with two queen beds, an elevated day bed, and a wall of window-filled doors that looked out over a private infinity pool set within the jungle. But the bathroom was the real kicker. I showed the kids pictures of the outdoor bathroom leading up to our trip because I knew they’d find it fun. We raced outside to see it live, and I almost shrieked with joy. The claw foot tub had these beautiful candle pillars on either side. The vanities looked so darling – the juxtaposition of the high-end finishes with the weather worn wood-slatted floors just worked somehow. And billowing privacy drapes wafted in the breeze. Later I realized the not-so-glamorous side of this type of bathroom is the lizard who lives in the toilet nook and has seen enough people on the shitter he isn’t afraid to pop out and say hello as you relieve yourself.

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Our first day was spent simply enjoying the property – the absolutely breathtaking view from the pool and hot tub was almost exclusively reserved for us as only a handful of others were on site during our stay. Dinner in The Kitchen was delicious, and we retired to our rooms with a stiff dirty martini to watch Home Alone with the kids. This giant screen pulled down over the french doors, turning our cottage into a movie theater. A movie theater with Netflix and Amazon Prime no less – the kids finally believed we were in paradise – haha.

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Day two we really settled into vacation mode – leisurely breakfast, workout in the surprisingly well-appointed gym, pool-food-nap-bar-repeat, and then another delicious meal before turning in for the second half of Home Alone. Spoiler – Kevin makes it out alive.

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Day three we journeyed into Basseterre and the Port Zante Marina. Two massive cruise ships were letting travelers off to explore St. Kitts for the day. We dodged them as best we could, seeking sunscreen and souvenirs. Then we boarded a boat to head out on the water for some snorkeling. Blue Water Safari was the company we used – and they were amazing. Inside the boat was spacious, but it didn’t really matter as everyone preferred to be on the nets in the warm sun. We cruised around a fair bit and then pulled up to a shipwreck at a place called Shitten Bay (charming, right?). The kids seemed genuinely enthusiastic about snorkeling…and then Caroline got in the water. She had a full.blown.meltdown. Shrieking and nearly drowning Tim trying to crawl on his shoulders. There was no calming her down in that water. I thought for sure Will would take his cues from her, but the little guy gave it a try. He wouldn’t go without holding on to me so we took a noodle and floated over it together as we snorkeled. He got half way to the shipwreck and did okay – and then we saw some jelly fish down below and he calmly expressed a desire to go back to the boat. I could tell he wanted to freak out but was trying so hard to stay cool. It was the sweetest thing. Once he was back on the boat I headed out to the shipwreck to meet up with Tim who I was able to find among the other snorkelers thanks to his bright white hair – haha. The fish were beautiful, and I spotted the friendliest looking sting ray. There were even some weird creatures one of the guides drudged up from the ocean floor which we got to hold and check out. Back on the boat Caroline had made fast friends with some older women, and Will was hanging on one of the boat staff member’s every word. St. Clair was the gentleman’s name, and Will said he wished St. Clair was his brother. He promised he’d come back this summer to meet St. Clair’s 6 year old son 🙂

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Lunch on the boat was exceptional and, having completed the snorkeling, we started throwing back something the bartender called “Ting with a Sting.” We must have had 10 of them. Eek. Ting is sort of like Squirt but better. The Sting is vodka.

Another couple on the boat was staying at our resort so we gave them a lift home in our van and enjoyed chatting with some other adults.

Back at the resort, we took a quick dip in the pool and then went to get ready for our dinner at The Farm Table. It’s a 30 ft table in a beautiful, long hut that looks out over the garden. The table was filled with other guests, and we sat next to a nice older couple from the UK who gave us many hints and tips for our next adventure in their neck of the woods. The dinner must have been a 10 course meal, but after too many Tings with a Sting earlier that day and then wine flowing at the table all night – I honestly can’t tell you what we ate and whether I liked it. Ooops. At one point I took Caroline to the bathroom and we got lost which, of course, freaked her out because we’re on the side of a volcano and it’s dark. #momoftheyear

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Miraculously, we found our way back to the table and decided the Fritts family needed to retire before dessert. I think the kids may have put us to bed that night.

Our final day at Belle Mont Farm was relaxing as we bounced between the pool and our cottage – only venturing off property to check out a restaurant on a Black Sand beach called Arthur’s. The kids had fun looking for shells, and mom had fun consuming the best Strawberry Mojito I’ve ever had in my life. Later that afternoon we saw a beautiful rainbow after our pool session turned into a rain shower. The way it rained there was special – it would be sunny the whole time and the raindrops felt warm. We almost looked forward to the mini afternoon storms we could see rolling in off the volcano each day. It really did feel like the volcano had its own weather system.

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We closed out our final night in St. Kitts with a rum tasting. I’m not a huge rum fan but they do rum right in the Caribbean! My favorite kind we tried was called CSR – deemed the “Spirit of St. Kitts.” Our host mixed up a drink called a Rusty – made with CSR, Angostura bitters and – you guess it – Ting! I foolishly assumed we’d be able to get CSR in the States – alas, I was wrong. Anyone headed to the Caribbean keeps your eyes peeled and bring me back a case 🙂

The day we were set to leave St. Kitts for Nevis, we were woken by the sounds of monkeys running along the rooftop. Earlier in the week during a rain shower, a monkey had taken up residence under a little alcove in the cottage’s roof – he just sat there eating a banana and throwing the peels down on the deck where Tim and I were enjoying a bottle of champagne. Besides the monkeys and the toilet lizard, we did have a salamander sighting earlier in the week. We asked the staff to try and get it out, and we’d assumed they had – until Tim went to pack up his suitcase where the salamander had been camping out. It raced up Tim’s arm and over his neck before Tim shot 10 ft in the air screaming like someone had just stuck a hot poker in his eye. I’m not sure Tim’s heart will ever recover from that experience. The remaining bags were checked to ensure they were not also serving as a temporary residence for a reptile. Needless to say – between the monkeys waking us up and the salamander encounter, Tim and I both agreed we were ready to leave this beautiful, but rugged, locale and get to a hotel with indoor plumbing!

Before leaving, we had one last chance to experience the character of the resort with a farm tour and an outdoor breakfast made with everything fresh from Belle Mont Farm. It was completely charming.

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We were sad to go, and Will made sure we checked in with his favorite concierge, James. He seemed genuinely sad to say goodbye to him as James was so sweet with Will all week long – always popping his head out the window and calling out to Will to say hello.

As we made our way from the north end of St. Kitts to the southern most tip to board our boat to Nevis, I couldn’t help but feel sad as we passed horribly run down villages. As tourists, often resorts do not expose you to what a place is really like for those who live there. Because we opted for a resort with character that was off the beaten path, we saw a side of St. Kitts I’m guessing most folks heading straight to the Park Hyatt don’t see. I feel bad saying this as it’s not as if anyone in St. Kitts looked unhappy to be living on that beautiful island – but it was a reminder of how much I have. It’s easy to forget, but driving through those pockets of poverty from one tourist paradise to another, I silently acknowledged the privilege of it all and promised to not just have gratitude, but to figure out a way to give back to each of the countries we visit on this upcoming year of travel.

This year is not just a year of gratitude – but a year of travel. For the next year, I’ll be taking (at least) one trip per month. Brainstorming all the places I could travel; planning the trip – from lodging to excursions to dining; anticipating the trip; packing (read: shopping) for the trip; being on the trip – all of it is just.the.best. But when the trip is winding down, that feeling of loss sets in. Pouring over the pictures helps but doesn’t totally heal. However – knowing exactly when and where my next trip is? That’s more like it. I’m officially a travel junkie. I can admit it. And always having a trip on the horizon? It’s like having an IV with a continuous drip of adrenaline and endorphins. As of right now, the year looks something like this:

November ’19: St. Kitts & Nevis (West Indies)

December ’19: Bath, Cotswolds, London (United Kingdom)

January ’20: Paris (France)

February ’20: Cayman Islands (Caribbean) & Scottsdale – AZ

March ’20: Austin – TX

April ’20: Water Sound – FL

May ’20: Ojai & Los Angeles – CA

June ’20: Lake Oconee – GA; London (United Kingdom); & Cannes (France)

July ’20: Boston, Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket – MA

August ’20: Sonoma – CA & Door County – WI

September ’20: Venice, Amalfi Coast & Capri (Italy)

October ’20: TBD pending the fate of the Chicago Cubs (my employer) in the Post Season (fingers crossed!)

During the dark, cold winter months of Chicago, I may also use this blog to relive past trips I should have documented – trips all over Europe, Japan, China, South Africa, South America, Australia, New Zealand… Some days I feel like I’ve seen so much and, yet, I realize I’ll never get every where. But that’s no reason to stop trying 🙂

While it’s a coincidence I’m launching this blog on Thanksgiving Eve, it’s fitting. Coming off a year that really sucker-punched me, I realize there is still so much for which to be thankful. And I’d rather focus on that. So here I am, getting back to my roots as the daughter of two authors and doing something I used to love to do but have somehow gotten away from: writing. And traveling. All the traveling. This blog will chronicle the adventures of a soon-to-be 40 year old woman – filled with wanderlust and satisfying her urge to be a citizen of the world. I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to document my travels, and – as a result – there are so many wonderful trips for which the finer details are long forgotten. But that’s okay. I’m thankful for those trips none-the-less. And I’m thankful for the adventures to come. And I hope someday (if someone ever reads this), my entries will be valuable to someone planning an adventure of their own. Onward…

My name is Lauren Fritts. I’m a wife and mother of two sweet and funny children, Caroline & William. My husband and kids are my first love. My extended family and dear friends I’ve accumulated over the years (who honestly feel like family) are my second love. Travel is my third love. It feels pretty good to have three great loves! Fitness (mostly the feelings that come after I’ve done the fitness) is something else that brings me joy. I’m a devout disciple of Orangetheory & Club Pilates (both of which are located in a strip mall less than a mile from my home). And – lucky for me – my job both challenges me and allows me to have fun. I work for the Chicago Cubs, and whenever anything feels overwhelming or stressful, I can literally remind myself that it really is just.a.game. I’m a bit rusty as a writer, but I promise if my blog doesn’t entertain you it will at least provide utility for your next trip!